On Tuesday evenings in Brooklyn, home cooks can be seen lining up at neighborhood fish counters, bypassing canned tuna in favor of fresh steaks. In Carroll Gardens, chef Leah Marcus has started serving quickly seared tuna with simmered white beans for her weekly supper club. The combination, she says, updates an old pantry standby for summer entertaining.
The dish relies on two techniques. The tuna is seared for under a minute on each side, leaving the center raw. The beans, cooked low and slow with garlic and herbs, anchor the plate. Marcus finishes the dish with olive oil and lemon zest. She reports that the approach has resonated with guests who want something light but still substantial during the current heat.
At the Red Hook Farmers Market last Saturday, vendors noted an uptick in sales of fresh pole beans and local tuna. Shoppers cited the appeal of a meal that can be served warm or at room temperature as temperatures climb into the 80s. One stand, run by fisherman Tom Nguyen, sold out of tuna by noon.
This method is gaining traction among restaurants offering prix fixe menus. On Monday, a reservation at Prospect Heights’ June Wine Bar included a similar plate, offered as a seasonal special. The kitchen staff there credits customer demand for lighter, protein-focused plates as the reason for the menu change.
As summer progresses, variations on this pairing are expected to appear in more kitchens across the city. For now, the dish is being embraced for its flexibility and its fit with long, warm evenings.