Barbecue is drawing crowds in New York this September, with several new restaurants taking varied approaches. On Thursday evening in Williamsburg, a line formed outside a recently opened spot run by a Texas-born pitmaster, who now prepares brisket and ribs over oak wood. Diners waited more than half an hour for trays stacked with peppery beef and tangy house-made pickles.
Elsewhere in the Bronx, a first-generation New Yorker with Dominican roots has started serving smoked pork shoulder and chicken. The chef, who learned barbecue techniques through trial and error, has drawn attention for combining sweet plantains with traditional sides like coleslaw. Weekend afternoons have seen families and students gather around picnic tables, sharing plates and discussing the start of the school year.
In Queens, a former high school football coach recently opened a counter-service operation focused on pulled pork and house-baked cornbread. The menu is straightforward, but regulars say the pitmaster’s dry rubs show a careful hand. The restaurant sits near a subway stop, making it a convenient spot for commuters on their way home after work.
This wave of barbecue activity reflects a willingness among local cooks to blend regional traditions and personal histories. Some smoke with mesquite, others with fruit woods. Several owners report steady business since Labor Day weekend, as the cooler weather draws more people to hearty meals.
The barbecue scene is likely to remain active through the fall. Restaurant owners say they are preparing for increased demand as the city heads into election season, with both weeknight dinners and weekend gatherings expected to keep pits busy.