This week, as early autumn menus return to Manhattan and Brooklyn restaurants, wine directors are reconsidering Cabernet Sauvignon. Although it remains the world’s most widely planted red grape, demand in city dining rooms has shown signs of cooling. At a Tuesday night dinner service at a Midtown steakhouse, sommeliers reported fewer requests for big, oaky Cabernets, with diners leaning toward lighter reds and blends.
According to Sarah Kim, beverage manager at a Chelsea bistro, customers now ask for Pinot Noir, Gamay, or obscure Italian varietals. Kim said, “Cabernet used to be a default choice, but lately, people want something less heavy.” Wine merchants in Lower Manhattan confirmed that Bordeaux-style bottles are moving more slowly compared to previous fall seasons.
Some industry observers attribute the shift to changing tastes among younger drinkers. These customers often seek out less alcoholic, more food-friendly wines. At the Union Square Greenmarket on Monday, a local distributor noted increased interest in natural and organic red wines, which rarely feature Cabernet Sauvignon as the main grape.
Despite the downward trend, several restaurants are standing by the grape. Daniel Ortiz, a sommelier at a West Village chophouse, said he is keeping multiple Cabernets on his by-the-glass list. “There’s still a loyal following, especially with classic steak dishes,” Ortiz explained. For now, Cabernet Sauvignon remains a staple, but its dominance is facing new competition this fall.