On Saturday afternoons in late May, fish shacks and seafood counters across the city see a rise in orders for fried cod and oysters. At Greenpoint Fish & Lobster, staff have begun making tartar sauce by hand again, mixing chopped cornichons, fresh dill, and lemon juice into mayonnaise. Restaurant managers note that customers are asking for homemade condiments rather than the prepackaged kind.
At Essex Market, a fishmonger offered samples of house tartar alongside fried whiting. A few customers asked about the recipe. The answer: no sugar, extra pickles, and a squeeze of fresh lemon. The sauce was thick and slightly tangy, flecked with green herbs.
Executive chefs at several Midtown hotels said they are adding tartar sauce preparation to their prep lists for the summer. One pastry chef at a West Side brasserie said she uses leftover egg yolks from meringue to make mayonnaise for the sauce, rather than buying jars. She described the taste as 'more balanced' and less sweet than commercial brands.
The shift comes as seafood season picks up. Outdoor tables at casual spots in Sheepshead Bay and Astoria serve fried seafood baskets with a generous side of homemade sauce. Diners have commented on the difference, according to waitstaff. The homemade versions are often creamier and more acidic than those in squeeze packets.
With Memorial Day approaching, some delis and specialty grocers are offering jars of house-made tartar sauce for sale. Prices range from $5 to $8 for an eight-ounce portion. For home cooks, classic recipes are circulating online, encouraging simple combinations of pantry staples and fresh herbs.