Tofu, long a staple in New York’s vegetarian kitchens, is getting a new look this spring. At several Lower Manhattan restaurants, cooks are now serving tofu stir-fries with a heavy dose of cumin and chili. The technique: crumble the tofu by hand, creating irregular pieces that brown quickly and soak up spices more thoroughly.
On a recent Wednesday lunch rush, kitchen staff at a Canal Street café worked pans of tofu over high heat. The aroma of toasted cumin and dried chilies drifted into the dining room. A server said the dish has been drawing interest from customers who want something meatless but complex.
Pricing for the cumin tofu dishes varies. At a small East Village spot, a plate starts at $15 and includes stir-fried greens and rice. Diners at a Chelsea counter-service restaurant can order a spicy tofu bowl for $13.50.
Several chefs point to the appeal of the dish’s texture and heat. By crumbling the tofu, the surface area increases, allowing it to absorb more flavor. The method, borrowed from Northwestern Chinese cooking, is gaining traction as menus shift toward lighter, spicier fare for the warm season.
As spring gives way to summer, the dish is expected to remain popular with crowds looking for vegetarian options that hold up well during outdoor dining and lunch hours.