A Cuban restaurant in West Palm Beach, Emelina, was awarded a Michelin star last week. The distinction marks a first for Cuban cuisine worldwide. Chef-owner Emelina Gonzalez, who left Cuba in her twenties, leads the kitchen.
The Michelin Guide announced the news at a ceremony in Miami on Thursday. The star recognizes Emelina’s focus on traditional Cuban dishes, including ropa vieja and lechón asado, prepared with local Florida ingredients.
New York City, home to several Cuban fixtures such as Cafe Habana and Victor’s Cafe, has yet to see a Cuban restaurant receive the same Michelin recognition. According to staff at Victor’s Cafe on West 52nd Street, Saturday night brought a noticeable uptick in diners asking about the Florida news.
Emelina’s star comes as the Michelin Guide expands its U.S. coverage, with more attention on Florida and Texas. For New York Cuban chefs, the news drew mixed reactions. Juan Perez, who runs a lunch counter in Washington Heights, said on Monday morning, “It’s good to see our food get noticed, but it should have happened here first.”
With summer travel season underway, some New Yorkers are expected to add Emelina to their Florida itineraries. For now, the city’s Cuban restaurants are sticking to business as usual, with hopes that Michelin’s spotlight will turn north next.