Pommes Dauphine, a blend of potato and choux pastry, has started to show up on several New York restaurant menus this September. The dish, a classic French preparation, combines mashed potatoes with pâte à choux, then fries the mixture until crisp. Chefs at Midtown's new bistro, Le Provençal, began serving them last Monday as a side to roast chicken. At $14 for a plate, they join other potato options but stand out for their airy texture.
On the Upper West Side, Sunday brunch at Café du Parc included Pommes Dauphine alongside omelets and steak frites. Diners described the puffs as "light but substantial," according to manager Lucille Bernard. The kitchen prepares them to order, piping the dough just before frying.
The timing coincides with the autumn harvest and a renewed focus on comfort food. Potatoes from upstate New York are coming into season. Restaurant owners cite both nostalgia and a desire for familiar, warming dishes as reasons for the item’s return.
According to chef Marc Girard at Le Provençal, the preparation requires more labor than standard fries. "It’s a bit of a production," he said, "but people notice the difference." The dish is not new to the city, but its presence is more visible this fall, as menus shift with the cooler weather and shorter evenings.