On a recent Tuesday evening, diners at Lungi, a new restaurant on East 74th Street, lingered over plates of fiery Chettinad chicken and string hoppers. The Upper East Side, known for its quiet streets and traditional menus, now has a destination for the cooking of southern India and Sri Lanka. Lungi opened its doors in late May, filling a gap in a neighborhood with few options for this region’s cuisine.
Co-owners Arun Nair and Priya Kumar, both residents of the area, say they wanted to introduce more variety to the local dining scene. Their menu leans heavily on dishes from Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and coastal Sri Lanka. Coconut, black pepper, and red chiles are prominent. On a recent visit, the kitchen sent out a plate of mutton rolls alongside a tart mango pickle.
Prices sit just above neighborhood average. Most mains are in the $24 to $32 range. The restaurant occupies a narrow space, with a handful of two-tops and a small bar. On weekends, the dinner crowd tends to arrive later, after the early theatergoers have cleared out. The staff reports steady traffic since opening, with reservations filling up for Friday and Saturday nights.
Lungi’s arrival comes at a time when several new restaurants are testing the Upper East Side’s appetite for more diverse flavors. The early summer heat has not deterred diners from ordering spicy mains and sharing rice-based desserts. The kitchen has adjusted the chile levels for guests who ask, but most tables request the food as the chef intends.
The team plans to add a Sunday brunch menu later this month. Until then, dinner service runs Tuesday through Sunday, with last seating at 9:30 p.m.