Noma, the Copenhagen restaurant that has long influenced chefs in New York and beyond, is reopening this season. René Redzepi, its founder, will take on the title of creative director rather than chef. The change follows a period of scrutiny for the restaurant, including public allegations of workplace abuse in past decades and a recent pop-up in Los Angeles earlier this year.
The restaurant, which was once named the best in the world multiple times, closed its regular service before the pandemic. In recent months, its absence has been a topic among industry professionals, especially as dining rooms in New York look to Europe for new ideas during the busy summer travel season.
Redzepi's shift away from daily kitchen operations is being watched closely by chefs in the city. Several New York restaurateurs, including those who have staged at Noma, say they are paying attention to how the Danish team addresses both kitchen culture and creative direction on reopening. The restaurant’s new leadership structure has not been fully detailed.
As of this week, Noma’s Copenhagen reservation books are expected to open soon. Some New Yorkers who frequented the Los Angeles pop-up report that demand for seats is already high. No similar pop-ups or collaborations have been announced for New York at this time.
The Noma reopening comes as the city’s fine dining sector is in a period of transition. Several local chefs cite Redzepi’s influence on fermentation and foraging, elements that remain visible on summer menus across Manhattan and Brooklyn.