At restaurants across the city this week, quick-pickled red onions have been turning up in unexpected places. On Tuesday afternoon at a Tacombi counter in Nolita, a prep cook dropped thinly sliced onions into vinegar for the lunch rush. By 1 p.m., the jars were nearly empty.
The appeal is practical. Chefs and home cooks use the pickles to add acidity and color to tacos, sandwiches, and salads. At Edith’s in Williamsburg, pickled onions have become a fixture on bagel-and-lox plates. They are also folded into grain bowls during peak lunch hours at Midtown offices, according to several deli managers.
Most versions require little effort and less than an hour. Restaurants often combine red onions with white vinegar, salt, and a small amount of sugar. The onions soften quickly, taking on a bright pink hue. According to kitchen staff at Cafe Mogador, the pickled onions keep for up to a week when refrigerated.
With the city in the middle of a humid June stretch, quick pickles offer a way to cut through heavier summer fare. Several chefs described them as a staple on hot afternoons, when appetite ebbs in the heat but acidity is welcome. Diners looking to make their own have no shortage of online recipes, including recent instructions published by Bon Appétit.