Potato kugel is showing up on more New York menus this autumn, well beyond its traditional role during Jewish holidays. At Russ & Daughters Cafe on Orchard Street, the dish appears alongside smoked fish platters and is ordered by weekday lunch crowds, not just for Rosh Hashanah or Passover.
Home cooks in Brooklyn's Flatbush and Borough Park neighborhoods report making kugel for weeknight dinners this month, citing the availability of new-crop potatoes at local markets. "It's a comfort food, and with school back in session, it's easy to reheat," said Miriam Goldfarb, who runs a catering business near Kings Highway.
At Shelsky's in Cobble Hill, a full tray sells for $25. Slices are available by the piece, drawing steady interest from customers on Sunday mornings. Staff say demand increases during the fall, when cooler weather encourages heartier side dishes.
While some restaurants keep to the classic recipe of shredded russet potatoes, onion, and matzo meal, others are experimenting. A Lower East Side deli recently introduced a version with caramelized leeks. Despite the variations, the defining feature remains a crisp, browned crust, achieved with a hot oven and plenty of oil.
As the city moves into September, potato kugel sits comfortably between nostalgia and convenience for many New Yorkers—no holiday required.