Pumpkin is turning up in unexpected places as New York kitchens settle into early September. At several neighborhood diners and cafés, cooks are adding canned pumpkin puree to chili, giving the dish a deep orange color and subtle sweetness. The ingredient lends extra body to the stew, which is typically based on ground beef, onions, and a mix of spices.
At a Lower East Side lunch spot on Friday, a staffer ladled out bowls of pumpkin chili for $14. The dish was topped with sour cream and scallions. Diners described the flavor as familiar but with a noticeable autumnal note. "We started making it after Labor Day," said the manager, "when regulars asked about fall soups."
The use of canned pumpkin allows kitchens to produce the chili quickly, without the time-consuming process of roasting fresh squash. A line cook at a Chelsea café said the addition "keeps the chili thick, so it holds up well for takeout."
Recipe development staff at several local publications have pointed to pumpkin chili as a way to introduce seasonal produce into standard weeknight meals. The approach also fits the current harvest mood, as farmers' markets display early squashes and root vegetables.
As the city heads into the second week of September, pumpkin chili is set to remain on rotation at a range of casual spots. Some kitchens plan to keep the dish available through Thanksgiving.