Rhubarb has begun to appear at Greenmarkets and neighborhood produce shops across the city. The pink stalks, often overlooked outside of spring, are showing up this week in breakfast specials and pastry cases. At Bakeri in Greenpoint, cooks sliced rhubarb for a compote served over cardamom buns by mid-morning Saturday. Staff at the Union Square Greenmarket reported steady demand for the first local harvest, with several vendors selling out before noon.
Some home cooks are following the lead of food writer Melissa Clark, who has demonstrated a quick roasting method for rhubarb. The result is a tart, syrupy topping that can be spooned over yogurt at breakfast or used to dress up ice cream after dinner. At Sahadi’s in Brooklyn, a prepared version sells in small containers, intended for both sweet and savory pairings.
Rhubarb’s short season drives urgency among regular shoppers, according to Sonia Patel, who manages the produce section at Essex Market. "People ask for it as soon as the weather warms up," she said Friday. Prices have ranged from $4 to $7 per pound this week, depending on the source and quality.
Several restaurants have added rhubarb desserts to seasonal menus. At Leland Eating and Drinking House in Prospect Heights, a yogurt panna cotta arrives topped with roasted rhubarb and pistachios. Some bakeries, including Ovenly in Williamsburg, are offering rhubarb scones and galettes through June. The demand is expected to continue as school-year schedules wind down and more residents look for ways to mark the season at home.