Sam Sianis, longtime owner of Chicago’s Billy Goat Tavern, died earlier this week at 91. The tavern, known for its no-frills burgers and neon-lit basement setting, attracted national attention after a recurring 'Saturday Night Live' skit in the late 1970s. Sianis became a recognizable figure in the bar’s cramped kitchen, juggling orders for 'cheezborgers' and trading jibes with regulars.
The tavern’s reputation in sports circles grew after the so-called 'Curse of the Billy Goat,' a story involving Sianis’s uncle and the Chicago Cubs, circulated for decades. The curse was said to have contributed to the team’s long championship drought, drawing baseball fans and tourists to the bar.
In Manhattan, the Billy Goat’s legend lived mostly as reference—through SNL reruns and the occasional imitation at local diners. On Friday at Veselka in the East Village, a late-night cook cited Sianis’s 'cheezborger' refrain as a touchstone for short-order cooks across the country.
Sianis was born in Greece and took over the tavern from his uncle, William Sianis, in the mid-20th century. He kept the menu simple and the mood informal, even as the bar became a stop for politicians, reporters, and baseball fans after games at Wrigley Field.
News of Sianis’s death circulated throughout the restaurant industry this week. Several New York operators noted the influence of Billy Goat’s model on the city’s own diner and tavern culture, especially in handling late-night crowds and keeping menus concise.