On Monday morning, kitchens across the city are adjusting their menus to reflect the heat. At Midtown’s lunch counters, shrimp and white bean salads are showing up with thin coins of zucchini and yellow squash. The combination draws from the familiar, but the additions are a nod to early June’s produce.
At Cafe Sorrento on Ninth Avenue, chef Daniela Ortiz is serving a version with a heavy hand of garlic, fresh basil, and a squeeze of lemon. Ortiz said the dish sells well with office workers looking for a meal that’s substantial but not heavy. The beans, she noted, are cooked just until they hold their shape, avoiding the mushiness that sometimes plagues the classic pairing.
At the Greenmarket in Union Square, piles of striped summer squash are moving quickly. Vendors report more buyers asking for tips on cooking with beans and shellfish. “People are tired of the same old salads,” said vendor Tom Brooks on Saturday. “They want something warm but not soup.”
Many home cooks are following suit. Grocery stores in Astoria and Bay Ridge reported an uptick in frozen shrimp sales over the weekend. Cannellini beans and chickpeas are also moving off shelves, according to managers at three major chains.
In this first week of June, the city’s kitchens—professional and home—are finding ways to keep classic combinations interesting. Shrimp and beans, dressed up with what’s in season, seem to fit the current mood: light, quick, and meant for a weeknight meal when the sun is still out after eight.