On Friday night in Manhattan’s Flatiron district, most tables at a busy bistro held glasses of spritzes or nonalcoholic tonics, while bottles of wine sat largely untouched on the bar shelves. Servers say requests for wine pairings have dropped off since the start of outdoor dining season. Many diners now arrive in groups, opting to share pitchers or order rounds of signature cocktails.
At a Midtown steakhouse, the beverage director reported a similar trend. 'We used to sell two bottles of red for every table,' he said. 'Now, guests ask about low-ABV drinks or mocktails.' Sommeliers describe fewer conversations about vintage or region during dinner service this month. Instead, guests inquire about iced drinks that suit the humid evenings.
Industry analysts point to rising prices as an added factor. The average bottle now runs $70 or more on many city lists. A bartender at a Lower East Side wine bar noted, 'People are watching their budgets. A glass of wine can cost as much as a cocktail, so they choose the one that feels special.'
Meanwhile, some restaurants are experimenting with smaller wine lists and shifting focus to seasonal cocktails. A Williamsburg chef said their team now builds menus around drinks like watermelon spritzes and herbal coolers. 'It matches what people want after a hot day,' she said.
As the city heads into July, restaurant wine sales show little sign of rebounding. Some beverage directors plan to use the quieter weeks ahead to rethink their approach, testing new pours and promotions for late summer crowds.