Columns
A New York Times profile of Alexander Diaz's overnight grease-cleaning crew exposes how thoroughly restaurants hide the labor that opens their doors each morning. Owners should name these workers, disclose their pay, and credit them like any other part of the kitchen.
October 26, 2026
Columns
The U.S.-Canada trade fight is slowing the flow of Canadian artisanal cheese south just as small producers were gaining ground. Washington should stop treating small-batch food as collateral damage and carve it out.
October 25, 2026
Columns
Tariffs tied to the U.S.-Canada trade fight are slowing Canadian artisanal cheese on its way south. The policymakers who own that fight should answer for what it does to the small producers and the restaurants that buy from them.
October 24, 2026
Columns
Palladino's has put a Dallas chef known for public blowups in charge of a kitchen inside one of the most-trafficked rooms in New York. The corporate owner should say, plainly, what it is buying and what it will stand behind.
October 23, 2026
Columns
Cafe Fiorello has stood across from Lincoln Center since 1974, and a Texas billionaire just bought it out of bankruptcy. The city should ask what we owe the rooms that made the neighborhood before the next one goes the same way.
October 23, 2026
Columns
Mitani New York wants $700 a head, wine pairings on top, and it is leaning on a four-year Tokyo waitlist to justify the ask. That is a marketing story dressed up as a dining one, and diners and critics should demand more before they pay for it.
October 22, 2026
Columns
A walk-up window across from the Journal Square PATH station has fed commuters since before the war, and it closes November 30. If a place like this can't be protected, the fine print of our civic pride was never worth reading.
October 22, 2026
Columns
Private equity groups are buying into small restaurants and food businesses, and the regulars are speaking up. They are right, and the people taking the money owe the dining public a straight answer about what changes once the check clears.
October 21, 2026
Columns
A panko-fried egg has nearly 10 million Instagram views, and the idea traces to a 2013 Japanese recipe contest. The internet's favorite way of discovering food keeps skipping the part where someone's name goes on the plate.
October 20, 2026
Columns
Climate change is cooking up the seafood market, turning filet dreams into financial nightmares. It's time we hold the seafood industry accountable and demand transparency.
October 14, 2026
Columns
Eater's latest list of 'notable' NYC restaurants fails to represent the heartbeat of the city's diverse culinary landscape, focusing instead on the already celebrated and gentrified spaces.
October 13, 2026
Columns
Thomas Straker's new Soho venture, Straker’s, may be the latest hotspot, but its arrival raises the question: Are these celebrity chef restaurants really serving the community or just their egos?
October 12, 2026